From what you’ve said, I think there are two possibilities: one is that your mead has fermented out, and you are seeing dissolved CO2 escape. The other is that your mead is stuck or fermenting slowly. I got the feeling that you didn’t want to get a hydrometer when I suggested it the last time, but that’s what you need right now.

If the specific gravity (SG) is low enough (below 1.000) and is stable (same reading a week or two apart), then you mead is finished. If the SG is still falling, then your mead is fermenting slowly. If the SG is above 1.000 and stable, then your mead is probably stuck. You won’t be able to tell the difference by just eyeballing it.

Most any wine yeast available to home wine makers should have no trouble fermenting at 60F.

Erroll

It looks like we have a few different things to talk about. Let’s start with sulfite. The usual practice is to add 1/4 tsp sulfite powder to a 5-gallon (about 19 liter) batch before pitching the yeast, at every other racking, and just before bottling. It sounds to me like you added 3/4 tsp of sulfite powder to a 15 liter (about 4 US gallon) batch. Is that right? If so, the dosage is high – about what you would add after racking a 5-gallon (19 liter) batch five times – and I would not add any more until bottling time.

As to racking, you’re right that it’s best to do it based on the lees that collect at the bottom rather than a fixed schedule. Many recipes use schedules because they’re easier to explain (and to follow). You can rack too much, because you’re exposing your mead to air every time. After your first racking, you should have it under an airlock. I would say rack when it drops lees, but no more than once a month. You should see the racking become less frequent over time because the heavier sediment has already fallen out.

You need to be sure that fermentation is finished, and your mead is stable, before you bottle. Your hydrometer can tell you if it’s finished, and by “stable” I mean either dry (a specific gravity less than 1.000) or stabilized with sulfite and sorbate. It’s also nice if the mead is clear and finished dropping sediment. So if the mead is clear, dry (or has been stabilized), and you see no lees or change in SG over two months, then you can bottle.

I know it can be hard to wait, but mead does age well. If you can stand to wait a year, you will be rewarded. It’s rare for me to open a bottle earlier than three years. In the end though, your mead is ready when you think it’s ready – if you taste it and it tastes good then don’t let me or anyone else tell you not to drink it!

Thanks for the update, and I hope this helps
Erroll

You can measure the alcohol content of your mead with a hydrometer by comparing original and final readings. You can also tell the difference between a mead that has finished fermenting and a mead that has stuck. You can buy one online for about $6, or you can buy one locally to avoid shipping charges, but one way or another you should buy one.

When used properly, sulfites do no harm, reduce the risk of spoilage, and protect against oxidation. Why wouldn’t you want to use them?

When your mead is finished fermenting, and you will be able to tell by using your hydrometer, it will have a layer of sediment or slurry at the bottom. Racking separates the mead from this sediment – we call it lees. More sediment will drop after the first racking because yeast and other solids are still suspended in the mead. You can speed up the process by fining, but even so it will not be ready to bottle right after it has fermented out.

Patience, grasshopper!

Erroll

Your mead is still bubbling nicely. Wait for it to finish, then take another specific gravity (SG) reading.

As for sulfite, the usual practice is to add them before pitching the yeast and then at every other racking. It’s ok to skip the initial sulfite for a straight (no fruit) mead. That’s because the initial sulfite is meant to suppress microorganisms in fresh fruit. The follow up doses control oxidation, so when the time comes to rack keep notes on your sulfite additions and keep to a schedule of adding sulfite at every other racking. I’ve written about measuring sulfite, and that post might help with how much to add and how to add it.

Erroll